Straight trip pawlĬareful attention with pliers, a vice and a rather large hammer straightened the pawl. On the bench it is clear that it is rather bent and distorted. I was able to remove the damaged pawl from the top without recourse to totally dismantling the mechanism underneath. More important, you can see the circlip that holds it in place. Looking from the top, after manually rotating the main drive cog, you can see the damage. That engages the drive from the platter to the automation mechanism and the magic dance commences.
When any sort of automation is required this pawl is moved so that an extrusion on the platter catches on it and pushes the big gear above round by a few degrees. It’s called a “trip pawl” and is an essential part of the automation mechanism. Trip pawl damageĪ look underneath revealed this rather bent and mangled component. Again this was consistent with the sellers description. The arm didn’t raise or return at the end of play. Any sort of automation was conspicuous by it’s absence.
#GARRARD ZERO 100 MANUAL FULL#
Full stereo reproduction was present and correct. The motor turned quietly and at the right speed. I was then able to actually play records straight away. AfterĪfter some more sanding, a couple of coats of paint and removing the masking tape we have this. Here we see the damaged area after sanding down with wet & dry paper. This paint gives great coverage, sticks to anything, and provides a very pleasing satin black finish with just a couple of coats. I used it previously on my dual 505 plinth project. Warhammer Chaos Black aerosol paint is again my weapon of choice. Is there a knack to this that I haven’t got? I decided to cut my losses and resort to careful application of masking tape to protect it. I had hoped it could clip off, but it seems it is glued together pretty tight. Zero 100 plinth prepared for paintingĮfforts to remove the aluminium surround were fruitless.
I failed to cleanly remove this, leaving glue residue and scratched paint. An anti static brush had been crudely glued to the top left hand corner. This will also give the paint plenty of time to dry before re-uniting the deck and plinth. The deck needs to come out of the plinth for repair anyway, so cosmetic and mechanical repairs can commence concurrently. My first impressions of this turntable were excellent, so no this occasion I am confident confident the mechanics will be repairable.
Sometimes mechanical repair isn’t possible, so why waste time on cosmetics. This is mainly so that I don’t damage a nicely repaired case during other repairs. I normally delay such work until I have the mechanics sorted. This time I’m going to start with cosmetic issues. However it was described as “faulty”, which indeed it is. This recently purchased classic 1970’s British turntable was, for the most part, in excellent condition.
0 kommentar(er)
